Short answer: walk Mdina’s walls for the island panorama, then step into Rabat for St Paul’s history and a still‑warm pastizz. Bastion Square gives views across central Malta, which is the single moment most people remember when they look back on the day.
What counts as “best” depends on you. If you want a headline view and atmosphere, start inside the walls where Mdina was Malta's former capital and Mdina's main gate is a grand Baroque gateway. Mdina is The Silent City, so its lanes stay hushed even when tour groups are in the main square. If substance beats spectacle for you, fold in one deep history stop in Rabat: St Paul's Church contains St Paul's Grotto, and there is an underground passage to the Wignacourt Museum. If you prefer something quicker and more theatrical, the Mdina Dungeons take 30 to 45 minutes and feel theatrical rather than academic. For a fast scene‑setter at the start, the Knights of Malta experience is an audio‑visual attraction that gives a quick chronological introduction. There are plenty of photo opportunities, and you can eat well on either side of the walls: Fontanella Tea Garden is loved for high rampart views and generous slices of cake, Bacchus sits in historic chambers with a leafy courtyard, De Mondion is a formal restaurant with elevated views, Trattoria AD 1530 is an approachable choice near the gate, and Coogi’s has a relaxed courtyard for coffee and light meals.
Getting there is easy without a car. Take bus 51, 52 or 53 from Valletta. You can expect around 35 minutes from Valletta by bus. The bus depot is between Rabat and Mdina and only minutes' walk from the gates, so you step straight into sightseeing. Rabat is a short walk from Mdina, which is exactly what the name says: Rabat means suburb in old Arabic.
A simple route that hits the highlights goes like this. Enter through the main gate, pause to admire the palaces, churches and convents around the cathedral square, then move to the ramparts for the first big view. If you want a coffee break with a vista, Fontanella Tea Garden is loved for high rampart views and generous slices of cake, or try the refined stop at Palazzo de Piro beside the cathedral area for coffee or lunch. Meander down to Palazzo Falson if you enjoy historic house museums, then walk to Bastion Square for the widest sweep across the island. Drop out of the walls towards the Greek Gate and you are already halfway to Rabat; Crystal Palace Bar in Rabat serves pastizzi near the Domus Romana and the Greek Gate. From there, either choose the St Paul’s cluster or a catacomb. St Paul's Church contains St Paul's Grotto and There is an underground passage to the Wignacourt Museum, whose former life as a Grand Master’s palace shows in its collections of local art downstairs and furniture and paintings upstairs and its old cellars that connect to ancient catacombs. If you prefer the underground cemeteries, St Agatha's catacombs are particularly interesting. If you want a lighter touch back inside the walls, the Mdina Dungeons take 30 to 45 minutes and feel theatrical rather than academic and sit close to the main gate, so they slot neatly into a brisk circuit.
How much time to allow. A half day is enough for the gate, cathedral square, the bastions, one sit‑down break and either St Paul’s sites or a catacomb. Add another couple of hours if you plan to tour more than one museum or linger over a long lunch at Bacchus or book a formal dinner at De Mondion.
Opening hours and when to go. The Roman museum between Rabat and Mdina opens 09:00-17:00 as of Feb 2017, and most church and museum schedules are daytime‑friendly, so arrive early if you can. Cafes peak in late morning and lunch; for a quieter table arrive soon after opening or wait until main tour groups begin leaving in the afternoon. Expect a short wait at Fontanella at peak times. Mdina’s evenings are atmospheric but very subdued, so if you want bustle after sunset, use Rabat, where Grotto Tavern’s cave‑like setting makes sense when Mdina feels too quiet after dark.
Costs, tickets and entry. Individual museum entries vary by site. If you join a guided walking tour, a ticket QR code is mandatory and bring ID recommended, and book in advance because tours tend to sell out quickly. The Roman museum between Rabat and Mdina sells a large metal souvenir for €3.50.
When to avoid and crowd tactics. The main square around the cathedral and Fontanella’s terrace are busiest late morning through lunch. Go straight to the bastions at opening, then work back into the lanes and museums as groups gather, or reverse it and roll up in the afternoon when main tour groups begin leaving. In summer the ramparts are exposed at midday, so keep the shady Rabat streets and indoor stops for the hottest hour.
What Mdina and Rabat are like in a nutshell. Mdina’s core is medieval and baroque, with layers shaped by Phoenician, Roman, Arab, medieval and Baroque periods, then refashioned into the calm, small‑scale streets that make it so photogenic. Rabat stays more lived‑in, with traditional townhouses and balconies, proper food stops and that quick link back to the St Paul’s story. Buskett is the greenest place on Malta and Buskett sits just south of Rabat if you want a countryside add‑on after your visit.
If you are building a longer day around central and western Malta, pair this loop with a coast stop like Blue Grotto or the sunset terraces above Golden Bay Ghajn Tuffieha. If you have more time in the islands, save a full beach day for the north and west at Mellieha Bay, or head south for seafood at Marsaxlokk and a swim at St Peters Pool. For wilder edges and big sea views elsewhere, look at Fomm ir Rih.
Common questions
Which bus from Valletta, and how long does it take?
Take bus 51, 52 or 53 from Valletta and you can expect around 35 minutes from Valletta by bus. The bus depot is between Rabat and Mdina and only minutes' walk from the gates.
Is Mdina or Rabat better for dinner?
Mdina is The Silent City and feels very quiet after dark, which is part of the charm but not ideal if you want atmosphere. In that case, Grotto Tavern in Rabat gives you a cave‑like setting and is a handy nearby option when Mdina feels too quiet after dark.
Which catacombs should I pick if I only have time for one?
St Agatha's catacombs are particularly interesting. If you want something lighter, the Mdina Dungeons take 30 to 45 minutes and feel theatrical rather than academic, so they suit a brisk visit.
Last checked: 29 September 2026. Prices, opening hours and timetables change, verify anything time-sensitive before you travel. Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0.
